> Beauty > Skin Care > aging skin

Commercial cosmetic companies tout miraculous breakthroughs in wrinkle creams and anti-aging serums. Many of us know the exorbitant price tags on many of these commercial products usually reflect costly advertising campaigns and stylish packaging more than what is inside.

Alternatively, the natural health industry is also rapidly producing an array of anti-aging skin-care products, introducing scientific-sounding ingredients such as antioxidants coenzyme Q₁₀, alpha lipoic acid, pycnogenol, and tocopherols. As these products prove their commercial viability, mainstream cosmetic companies are giving their wares a more natural spin. Here are some of the hottest ingredients promoted in today’s natural and commercial anti-aging skin-care products.

Alpha-Hydroxy Acids

Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), which also take names such as glycolic acid, malic acid, citric acid, and lactic acid, are exfoliants made from fruity acids. They have been used in skin-care products for years.

By sloughing off the outer layers of skin, AHAs are purported to leave skin looking younger and plumper. Some doctors, however, advise against their use, warning that AHAs dissolve the “glue” that holds the surface skin cells together, repeatedly irritate the skin, and, among other things, leave it more vulnerable to sun damage. Since 1989, the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has received more than 100 reports of adverse reactions in people using AHA products. Consequently, the FDA is studying both alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids to determine if they predispose users to skin cancer.

If you’re going to use products with AHAs, Paula Begoun, author of The Beauty Bible (Beginning Press, 1997), recommends using glycolic or lactic acid with a concentration no higher than eight to 10 per cent.

Beta-Hydroxy Acids

Salicylic acid, one of the most common beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs), is a peeling agent that has been used in acne treatment for decades. It occurs naturally in some plants or can be synthesized in a laboratory. BHAs are preservatives with an anti-inflammatory effect and are included in many face-care products.

Alpha Lipoic Acid

Alpha lipoic acid (ALA), a gentle, yet potent, antioxidant, is found in each cell of the human body and in food sources such as brewer’s yeast, red meat, and potatoes. It is both water- and fat-soluble and scavenges free radicals throughout the body. In addition, ALA helps regenerate other antioxidants in the body. Dermatologist Nicholas Perricone, beginning in 1990, performed studies on the topical use of ALA and reported that his patients experienced a reduction in facial lines and wrinkles, under-eye puffiness, enlarged pores, acne scars, and sallow or dull skin.

Retin-A or Renova

According to the FDA, Retin-A or Renova, a vitamin A derivative available by prescription only, is one of the only approved products for reducing sun damage to the skin. Abundant evidence shows that tretinoin, the active ingredient in Retin-A and Renova, is effective in combating photo aging. Long-term use of Retin-A, however, has not been studied and women who are pregnant or trying to become pregnant are advised not to use it. Since Retin-A’s rise to popularity, many cosmetic companies have introduced products containing retinol or retinoic acid (the active form of vitamin A). One study indicated that pretreating skin with retinol before sun exposure would reduce damage to skin, however, application after sun damage showed no benefit.

DMAE

Known chemically as dimethyl-amino-ethanol, oral DMAE supplements have been available under the product name Deanol for more than 30 years. This nutrient is present in fish and is often taken to improve cognitive function. DMAE may have the ability to improve the appearance of sagging or rough skin and reduce lines, but more independent study is needed to prove its effectiveness.

Vitamin C and C Esters

Tanya Coad is a freelance writer and researcher with a long-time interest in natural foods and medicine. She has worked in the health food industry for seven years. Her articles have appeared in numerous health journals and magazines. We welcome your feedback at editorial@alive.com.

Source: alive #253, November 2003