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The main difference between natural and commercially produced soap is the chemical reaction between oils and an alkali. Called saponification, this process can produce quantities of glycerine, an effective natural moisturizer. Or it can wash glycerine down the drain, as in the fast, chemically enhanced process of commercial soap making.

During saponification of commercial soaps, the oil and alkali mixture is treated with pressurized hot water, as well as a catalyst. Glycerine is removed and chemicals are added to enhance lathering properties or to change the appearance of the soap. Dyes, synthetic perfumes, chelating agents, and preservatives such as EDTA are added to finish commercial soap. EDTA, otherwise known as ethylenediaminetetra acetic acid, is as undesirable for our skin as it is unpronounceable.

Yet skin is a porous membrane that allows chemicals to pass through it into the bloodstream. Poor-quality commercial soaps formulated with toxic chemicals have a high pH and are often responsible for skin rashes and irritations, especially when used on dry, sensitive skin. It makes sense to use skin products that are beneficial, not harmful.

Additionally, chemicals in commercial soaps are eventually washed into rivers and oceans, which creates environmental problems. Bubbling streams take on a new meaning when the bubbles are toxic chemicals.

In contrast, natural soaps contain essential oils, herbs, botanical extracts, and skin conditioners such as oatmeal and rosewater. Cold processed soaps, during saponification, retain the beneficial properties of glycerine, which helps soften our skin.

Saponification, by the cold-process method, takes six to eight weeks to complete the “natural curing” process. During the cold process of soap making, vegetable oils and fats are mixed with sodium hydroxide, the blend is stirred, and other ingredients are added. No heat is applied to the mixture - it saponifies naturally. Glycerine is stirred back into the processing soap mix. The retained glycerine in handmade soap makes a product that is moisturizing and gentle on the skin. Nutritious ingredients such as soothing aloe vera, healing camomile, moisturizing honey, and exfoliating oatmeal are added. For those who prefer not to use animal products, natural soap manufacturers often offer soaps made exclusively from vegetable oils. Coconut, a favourite oil for handmade soaps, gives a soft bubbly lather with a faint coconut aroma.

Bar, liquid, or gel natural soap comes in many shapes and forms. Many Canadian companies offer a wide selection of natural handmade soap products, including bulk bottles of liquid soap. Natural baby soaps are so gentle and pure; they make great gifts that both baby and parents will appreciate. Natural body gels incorporating seaweed extract are popular for use in the shower, while natural bubble baths offer a luxurious pampered feeling enhanced further by botanicals in the bubbles. For a quiet relaxing soak, why not try a bubble bath with lavender and camomile. Both herbs are calming and soothing. Also look for goat’s milk, which has gentle exfoliating properties, as does oatmeal or apricot kernel, with their slightly grainy texture that can be used as a scrub. To ensure the product has organic ingredients, check with your local health food store.

Because natural soaps do not contain preservatives, they should be stored away from direct sunlight in a tightly closed tin or bottle. Most bathrooms are hot, humid, and probably not good for storage.

A handcrafted bar of soap feels so good when it is lathered. The smoothness of natural soap’s soft and gentle cleansing lather is almost therapeutic.

If you would like to try your hand at soap making, take a course. The soap-making process isn’t complicated, but you need to follow the safety rules and learn the tricks of the trade. Once you have mastered the basic skills, a book such as The Complete Soapmaker: Tips, Techniques, and Recipes for Luxurious Handmade Soaps, by Norma J. Coney (Sterling, 1997), will set you on the path to a fascinating and rewarding hobby.

Sonya Bass, CH, has worked in the natural products industry for more than 15 years. She is a Chartered Herbalist and a freelance writer living in White Rock, BC.

Source: alive #255, January 2004