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Fabulous Fermented Foods
by author Nettie Cronish

So many of the foods and beverages we enjoy are a result of fermentation. Spirits, wine and beer, breads, dairy products, tempeh, and miso–even olives, tea, and coffee–all require bacteria to provide the flavour we love and the nutrients we need.

From the Latin fervere, which means to boil or bubble, fermentation is the chemical breakdown of an organic substance by enzymes which are released when bacteria and yeasts feed on them. Different types of fermentation produce various foods and beverages but, basically, fermentation means that starches and sugars in the food have converted to ethyl alcohol and bubbles of carbon dioxide gas.

A Jug of Wine, a Loaf of Bread

Alcohol fermentation has been used to produce beer from grains and wines from fruit sugars for more than 7,000 years. Fermented grapes turn to vinegar when bacteria known as Acebacteraceti react with oxygen in the air to form acetic acid. Most vinegars range from 4.5 to 9 percent acetic acid.

Fermentation in ordinary bread takes place in the main flavouring components–ordinary baker’s yeast and acids produced by bacteria. In sourdough bread, a sourdough starter made from airborne strains of yeast and bacteria is used to leaven the dough. Yeasts usually outnumber bacteria in traditional bread making. In sourdough bread, however, their balanced proportions allow plenty of acid-forming bacteria to be present. The acids guarantee a good shelf life because the acidic dough inhibits mould growth.

Yogourt is Fermented, Too

Yogourt, sour cream, cottage cheese, and buttermilk are the most widely eaten dairy products–after cheese, that is. These dairy products differ from most cheeses, though, in that they are not coagulated with rennet (a preparation made from the stomach membrane of a calf). Instead, these dairy products are thickened by the action of acid-producing bacteria. They’re more fabulous fermented foods.

The first yogourt was createdaccidentally. When left alone, fresh milk quickly teems with lactic acid bacteria that sour it. As long as fermentation occurs, the resulting thick texture and tart taste contain all the nutritional benefits of milk.

The original buttermilk was also a fermented food. Buttermilk–the low-fat liquid left over from making butter–was prepared by allowing milk to be contaminated by airborne bacteria during the churning. The milk thickened and soured, producing buttermilk that is quite different from the commercial product we buy today. When the containers were reused, it was found that the bacteria culture could be perpetuated. Adding a small amount of the previous batch guaranteed further results. Sour cream and crème fraiche were also made by adding previous batches of bacteria culture to the high-fat portion of milk.

Bacteria and fermentation are used in some of our favourite foods and beverages worldwide. What a wonderful legacy.

Nettie Cronish is a natural foods chef, cooking teacher, and cookbook author. She lives in Toronto with her three children and husband.

Source: alive #276, October 2005

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