Vertical Dance :: Fitness

Vertical Dance
by author Melissa Meneghetti

The thrill of rock climbing has become my passion. A five-foot female, I once thought climbing was for large males. But brute strength is not a prerequisite. Anyone can climb. Women’s flexibility and lower centre of gravity make us awesome climbers.

You don’t have to be an expert. Climbing is easy to get the hang of and doesn’t require extreme heights or costly gear. Mental and physical control, balance, finger strength and endurance are the keys.

Climbing, body and mind become one and I feel totally at peace. With my complete attention on the next move and the challenge of getting to the top, all stresses vanish. There’s no time to fuss about work or other problems. And the benefit of achieving remarkable body tone far outweighs the effort. Climbing also builds confidence by forcing you to the limit of your ability, breaking down psychological barriers as you go. You have the option to push the envelope–or not.

I relish the total body workout that a climb provides. I’ve tried working out in conventional gyms doing the treadmill, rowing and pumping iron routines but after a short time I lost interest. The missing component was achieving something while working out. It’s empowering to defy gravity.

Count on your back and arm muscles being sore no matter how short your initial climb. The benefit is nicely toned shoulders, arms and legs. Climbing strengthens all the muscles and forces them to work together, improving neural pathways. The cardiovascular system is also revved up.

The climbing gym is a very social experience where people congregate to train regardless of ability, climate or proximity to outdoor climbing areas. Walls are about 40 feet high and covered with grips of various sizes. Each path to the top, designated by a colour, is for a different level of difficulty ranging from novice to expert.

Novices are welcome and can take courses covering all the basics. Bouldering (climbing no more than 10 feet off the ground) is a great way for newcomers to learn and practise on different rock surfaces. It requires little more gear than a safety mat (no safety ropes).

Of course there’s no substitute for the real thing. Outdoor climbing can be hiking up a trail or scaling vertical rock and ice. The view is yours to behold! Indoor gyms help sharpen skills on rainy days and during the off-season with courses to improve technique. Beware of false confidence: natural rock has ever-changing variables. Climbing a certain grade in the gym doesn’t mean the same grade outside. If you plan to climb outdoors, go with a certified guide or complete an outdoor climbing course.

Technique, Strength and Endurance

Good technique involves practice. I started out by simply watching other climbers’ strategies and coordination. As I built up my strength and endurance, I gradually moved from small climbs to bigger challenges.

Ease into each session by thoroughly warming up. Pick an easy route, climb around slowly, then stretch arms, back, legs and hands, gently pulling fingers back toward your wrist. Stretching helps the blood flow, which increases your flexibility. Don’t rush. A good warm-up takes 10 to 20 minutes. It could save you from a potential injury.

Keeping hips next to the rock to maintain balance also provides a great abdominal workout! Twist hips here, lean out there, like a fluid puzzle you have to visualize. Focus on using your feet. Hang on straight arms; if they’re bent, your weight is supported by muscles, not bones.

To increase finger strength, confidence and mental toughness, grip the artificial holds in difficult orientations, like under-cling style. Strong hands equal good rockface grasp. Try tennis ball squeezes: do at least three sets of 20 for each hand.

Most climbing failures are from tiredness, not difficulty. To increase endurance, climb along the base of the wall, moving back and forth and up and down in a continuous circuit of 30 to 100 minutes. Climb until your arms ache and then rest on a large hold, alternately stretching and shaking out each arm.

Do power workouts twice a week, with a three-day recovery in between. Create different bouldering "problems" or routes that involve four to 10 individual holds. Climb at maximum effort in short bursts using holds that you can scarcely hang onto. Climb each problem, resting at least five minutes each effort. Effective power training requires that you tackle each sequence while you’re fresh, so don’t skimp on the rest time!

Clothes and Gear

A fitted T-shirt and comfortable shorts or stretch pants are fine. Climbing shoes should fit you like a glove and are crucial. The sticky rubber soles help you grip the rock and elevate yourself to the next hold. Long hair must be tied back. And don’t wear any jewelry, especially rings. Keep your fingernails short.

When you get to bigger heights, you’ll need climbing gear like a harness, belay device, locking carabiner, anchors, rope, chalk (for sweaty palms) and chalk bag. All can be rented at your gym.

Give rock climbing at least one try. Achieving something you think is beyond your reach is exhilarating. Strive for the ultimate "climber’s rush"–the enormous satisfaction of conquering a seemingly unattainable goal. Off to my graceful vertical dance...

Melissa Meneghetti is a 20-year-old climbing enthusiast in Nanaimo, BC.

Source: alive #224, June 2001

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