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Fields of Plenty
by author Abra Brynne

July first is Canada Day! Something to celebrate is this country’s important contribution to the world’s food supply. Canada is unsurpassed for the quality and quantity of its grains and seeds: our long, cold prairie winters help control disease and pest problems while our hot, dry summers nurture bountiful yields.

Over 45 million tons of wheat, oats, barley, rye, canola and flax seed are produced here annually–98 percent on family owned and operated farms. Much is exported: 75 percent of our wheat is sent mostly to the USA, Japan and Europe.

We’re also one of the top organic grain producers in the world. Although it’s still a small fraction of total crop acreage, organic grain production here is growing by 20 per cent annually. New Canadian organic standards and handling infrastructure as well as lower production costs and higher premiums for farmers could create an organic grain boom (Agriculture Canada predicts a five-fold growth in the medium term).

Wheat was introduced to Canada in 1605 (and the west in 1812) and is our dominant cereal crop. Six types are planted in the spring and Canada is the world-leading exporter of hard red spring wheat. Durum wheat, a spring variety grown primarily in Saskatchewan, is a Canadian specialty ideal for making pasta. Two fall varieties are mostly planted in southern Ontario (where mild winters allow), retaining soil moisture and controlling spring weeds. Both spring and fall wheat can be hard or soft, with varying protein content. The hard wheats have higher gluten content and are best for bread making. The soft wheats excel in pastries, cakes, cookies and cereals.

Wheat stimulates the liver to rid the body of toxins, supports the heart, spleen and pancreas and treats a range of stress-related symptoms. It fosters growth, so is good for children. However, its wide use in processed products and our diets generally (toast for breakfast, sandwich for lunch and pizza or pasta for dinner) leads to over-consumption and therefore allergies. "Fortified" means that only some of those nutrients lost when the bran and germ have been stripped off are replaced, and in limited proportions and unnatural states.

"White" flour’s popularity dates back to the introduction of porcelain rolling mills in the 1870s. These removed the bran and germ from the nutritionally inferior endosperm for a more consistent and stable flour. More expensive white flour became a symbol of wealth while the peasants ate whole grain foods.

Kamut and spelt are wheat relatives. They have gained popularity here over the past decade as they can be tolerated by those who are sensitive to regular wheats. Canadian-grown Artesian Acres kamut pastas have been approved by the Washington DC-based Glycemic Research Institute as low glycemic–good for diabetics, hypoglycemics, dieters and athletes.

Kamut is similar to durum wheat in its high protein content and golden colour. Spelt, a winter wheat, is softer and its higher moisture content requires less liquid than wheat in home baking.

Barley was introduced here in 1605 and is now also primarily grown on the prairies. As then, most is not for flour but for livestock feed and beer (15 percent is used for malting and the rest for feed). Barley is high-yielding, matures early and is often used in rotation with wheat. Much is processed into pearl barley, stripped of hull and germ (and nutritional value). Whole barley, with the inedible hulls removed, is rich in protein, B vitamins and fibre. Barley stimulates the appetite, aids with digestive disorders, helps prevent tooth decay and hair loss and improves the condition of toe- and fingernails. Barley also helps lower blood-cholesterol, reduce tumours and is used to treat hepatitis.

Oats make up about seven per cent of our grain crop. Introduced in the early 17th century and now grown in many regions of Canada, oats were second in importance only to wheat before tractors due to their dual purpose for animal and human food. Though oats come in an array of colours from black to red and white, demand for white oats predominates.

Abra Brynne is a passionate and skilled cook who works at the Spicer Centre in Winlaw, BC.

Source: alive #225, July 2001