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Rustic Regionalism
by author Jason McRobbie

With its pristine setting, five diamonds, and four stars, the Banffshire Club at the Fairmont Banff Springs has earned a reputation for epicurean excellence and no small measure of rustic elegance. Deepening the room’s regional roots has been a mission for some time.

“We’ve been the ultimate in fine dining for many years,” says chef de cuisine Ian Bens, who recently assumed the role of his mentor Chef Daniel Buss and since has taken firm aim at balancing comfort and authenticity. Front and centre is an emphasis on local ingredients lovingly prepared. As such, slow cooking sous-vides (using a low-temperature water bath) and lovingly crusted proteins from the restaurant’s renowned maple hardwood charcoal grill share the labour, while regional bounties take the spotlight.

Although year-round fresh ingredients are a challenge to procure in Alberta, Buss and Bens have developed a network that continues to grow. Broxburn Farms in Lethbridge provides the kitchen with sustenance throughout the seasons with a mix of hothouse and field-fresh products. The family-run greenhouses at Hotchkiss Farms supply organic heirloom vegetables to the Banffshire Club and many other restaurants in southern Alberta. Heritage-bred Berkshire pork is a recent addition from Broek Pork Acres.

For Bens, who is perpetually inspired by quality ingredients, the network fuels both his passion and his dishes.

“People are extremely interested in organic products and they react well when we promote our sources,” he explains. “Every time we change the menu, we include the names of the farms and work to educate both our servers and guests.”

Bens agrees that local farmers’ markets are enjoying a resurgence. “They’re huge here now, and a real sense of community has developed. Being able to meet the people who grow your foods, bring home the best ingredients, and know you are helping the local economy is a great thing.”

He laughs at the notion that it is far easier to grab a frozen pizza from the supermarket than cook a healthy meal. “There is really nothing simpler or more delicious than a ragout of local vegetables, some seasonal greens, and a roasted free-range chicken.”

Cinderella Pumpkin Soup

Date and Pecan-Crusted Venison

Caramelized Pear Phyllo with Five-Spice Ice Cream

Jason McRobbie is a freelance writer and creative consultant who nourishes his passion for cuisine through his involvement with local food groups such as Culinary Tourism British Columbia.

Source: alive #313, November 2008

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While Canada's restaurant scene continues to thrive on fresh openings, every once in a while, something Nu comes along. Nu, the eclectic sibling of Vancouver's C and Raincity Grill, captured national attention earlier this year when EnRoute magazine named it Canada's Best New Restaurant.
Pacific Oyster and Leek Stew
While oysters are revered as aphrodisiacs, less well known are their health benefits: low in fat and high in protein, B12, and iron, there are many reasons to love this stew.
Reflections Gastronomie Takes Flight
Once the busiest fishing port in the world, Steveston (located just south of Vancouver) offers more than just fish-and-chip shops. The wharf is bustling with tea rooms, book shops, and boutiques - along with Reflections Gastronomie, a recently opened, regionally rooted bistro with healthy aspirations of success.
Herbed Roast Turkey
Refreshingly simple and herbaceous, this recipe makes turkey talk in any season and can be easily translated with a wide range of fall fowl.
Local Eating
The 100-Mile Diet by Alissa Smith and J.B. MacKinnon (Random House Canada, 2007) and its approach to eating locally grown food seems blissfully easy with the abundant fruit and vegetable crops of summer. But what do you do in the fall and winter?
West Coast Wonder
Welcomed into the exclusive Relais & Chteaux ranks (an international guide to hotels and restaurants) less than two years after opening, the Wickaninnish Inn has stood by the qualifying five Cs ever since.
Dungeness Crab Cake
If Dungeness crab is unavailable, other crab meat, including canned, will produce similarly delicious results.
Baked Albacore Tuna with Fresh Herbs and Capers and Salsa
This dish delves into the herb box to deliver a dose of fall freshness that can be enjoyed year-round. Dried herbs deliver the flavour, but halve the quantities for fresh herbs used below.
The Fresh Sheet 07
alive had a lot to live up to following The Fresh Sheet's successful inaugural year. This year we ventured farther from our West Coast base, as food writer Jason McRobbie visited fresh new faces and places as well as veteran chefs and established restaurants across Canada's culinary map.
Slice: Health Inspired Food
Slice is more than a book of healthy recipes. While it is not a full compendium on nutrition, either, this cookbook is filled with important insight that easily relates to individual dishes.
Vij's Setting a Green Table Standart
For over a decade now, Vikram Vij has been an ambassador of good taste. Together with his wife and partner, Meeru, he has been guided by the simplest and purest of principles: to offer a taste of their homeland using the freshest local ingredients possible.
Pacific Halibut in Coconut Curry
We originally used orange roughy in this recipe, but when we realized it is considered an endangered fish, we switched to halibut.
Hearty Veggie Chili
Sprinkle with grated Parmesan or cheddar cheese and serve with crusty bread (garlic bread is good, too).
Sobo's
For five years, the tale of the little purple truck that dared to serve only the freshest fish tacos took the culinary world by quiet storm. The truck had no name, but the kitchen crew within it, and the business it birthed, most certainly does: SOBO.
Brown Rice Tofu Pockets
This is a versatile and fun recipe for getting the kids involved and has been a SOBO menu mainstay. The brown rice adds a nice nuttiness and is healthier, too!
Curried Black Bean Stew
This vegan main dish is fabulous served with spicy mango chutney.
West Coast Salmon Chowder
According to Canada's Food Guide this nutrient-dense, one-bowl dinner provides a serving of fish, three servings of fruits and veggies, and a one-half serving of milk.
Ultimate Foods for Ultimate Health
Authors Liz Pearson and Mairlyn Smith form a winning combination-two vibrant women clearly committed to inspiring change in readers and helping them build confidence about their healthy food choices.
Emerald Lake Lodge
A jewel of the Rockies ever since opening its doors more than 100 years ago, BC's Emerald Lake Lodge continues to draw visitors from the world over in search of adventure-both on and off the plate.
Braised Elk Osso Bucco
Served with boiled baby potatoes and seasonal vegetables, this will warm whatever winter is left in your bones. Lamb or chicken can also be substituted, but keep an eye on the moisture level and reduce your simmering time accordingly.
Fibre-Full Recipes
Fibre has always been one of my favourite subjects to commiserate about. Chocolate, fruits and veggies, and nuts are always getting the buzz in the media, and I've always felt that poor lowly fibre doesn't get the accolades it deserves.
Little Green Giant
Mom was right: eating your vegetables is good for your health.
Celebrating Spring with Araxi
Even in the depths of winter, Araxi Restaurant's executive chef, James Walt manages to root out a cornucopia of seasonal sustenance from the local growers surrounding histler, BC.
BC Halibut with Soft Herb Crust
Favoured by fish lovers for its sweet firmness and nutritional profile, halibut also has blessedly few bones. Rich in omega-3 essential fats and a strong source of protein, it veritably swims with the minerals selenium, magnesium, phosphorus, and potassium. Most importantly, the taste is unbeatable!
Gluten-Free Quick and Easy: From Prep to Plate Without the Fuss
by Carol Fenster, PhD Avery, 2007; 352 pages; paperback $23.50 ISBN 978-1-58333-278-8
Fuel
Food can be many things: a source of nourishment, comfort, and connection. At Fuel, tucked into the bustle of Vancouver's 4th Avenue, the aspiration is to make it all of the above.
Organic Duck Broth with Fennel, Orange, and Thyme
The key here is a good butcher with the bones to prove it! Naturally, you can work with other poultry as well, though the duck bones do bring a greater flavour to the broth.
All-night Roasted Shoulder of Organic Pork with Green Apple, Scallions, and Almonds
Sourcing organic protein and working with large cuts is both responsible and delicious, yielding unsurpassed flavour and value.
Harbingers of Spring
One of the first signs that spring is on the way is the annual rhubarb sighting. Canadian pioneers considered rhubarb a tonic. Nutritionally, rhubarb lives up to its historical background. It's a good source of vitamin C and potassium, a vitamin and mineral (respectively) the pioneers would need by the time spring rolled around.
Grilled Pork Chop with Arugula-Apple Salad
Sourcing heritage-breed pork makes for more delicious and conscionable consumption. Brio uses Sloping Hill Farm heritage-breed pork from Qualicum Beach, BC.
Grilled Herb Chicken
Place olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, and fresh diced herbs in a resealable plastic bag or in an 8 x 8 in (2 L) nonmetallic baking dish. Add chicken, ensuring that the marinade coats the chicken. If using a bag, reseal; if using the baking dish, cover. Store in fridge for at least 1 hour or up to 12 hours.
One With the Season
Cooking with fresh seasonal ingredients makes one happier where it counts most: in the kitchen. At One restaurant, in the heart of Toronto's five-star Hazelton Hotel, Mark McEwan knows the value of happy cooks and has worked hard to develop a strong culinary culture since the restaurant opened in August 2007.
Pan-Seared Perch with Parsley Butter
Perch in the pan is a freshwater delight: low in fat and calories and rich with selenium, it is deliciously simple to prepare. Although the filets are small, their flavour is sweet and the price is reasonable enough to make it enjoyable on a regular basis.
Lemon Grass
Sitting in my favourite Thai restaurant, I am surrounded by exotic smells that engulf my senses. I dig into Thai Hot and Sour soup (Tom Yum Gai) with great anticipation. Ahh...the wonderful taste of lemon grass.
Eigensinn Farm
Standing tall and living close to the land, Michael Stadtlander is a veritable giant in his field. As a chef, farmer, author, and multimedia artist, he is also one of Canada's leading culinary icons, pioneering a return to authenticity at Eigensinn Farm, just outside of Collingwood, Ontario.
Eigensinn Chicken on the Spit with Wild Grape Sage Sauce
Adapt this recipe for the grill by butterflying the whole chicken and cooking 30 minutes each side, beginning breast side down, until the skin is golden and the juices run clear.
Berry Healthy
For outstanding performance in taste and nutrition the Oscar goes to-blueberries! These sweet, blue treats are rightfully occupying preferred status on the nutritional red carpet. For getting health-enhancing antioxidant protection in your bowl, you can't do better than eating blueberries.
Halibut with Soft Herb Crust
Rich in omega-3 essential fats and a strong source of protein, halibut is also loaded with the minerals selenium, magnesium, phosphorus, and potassium. Favoured by fish lovers for its sweet firmness and nutritional profile, halibut also has fewer bones to put up with than other fish!
Sea Lettuce-Crusted Wild Sockeye Salmon with Sauted Vegetables
Sea lettuce can be a bit tricky to source off the coast, but can be found in specialty stores where the edible green algae is sought after for its high protein, dietary fibre, vitamins, and minerals.
Comfort Cuisine
Can the aroma of a Sunday dinner roasting in a wood oven last a lifetime? In the case of Executive Chef Hans Sauter, who first fell in love with cooking at his grandmother's table in a small Swiss town, the answer is deliciously affirmative.
Alberta Bison Filet Wrapped in Smoked Bacon with Red Wine Sauce and Maple Whisky Butter
While you can use regular bacon (or none at all) with this recipe, the flavour imparted by smoked varieties blend wonderfully well with both bison and maple whisky butter. Prepare red wine sauce and maple whisky butter ahead of time, as both will hold nicely refrigerated.
Easy on the Tummy
So don't. Skip the weigh-in for today and have an easy tummy day. Drink water to flush out all the extra salt you may have consumed, have a light breakfast of fruit and probiotic yogourt, a simple lunch of salad and a lean protein, and a dinner of whole grains.
The Art of Simple Food
Famed restaurauteur and food activist Alice Waters teaches fundamental techniques while instilling in readers a healthy planet food philosophy and culinary creativity. Although the "buy local, buy organic approach is a recent phenomenon, this author has long been considered a pioneer in the slow food movement. This is where modern meets traditional.
Date and Pecan-Crusted Venison
The date and pecan crust in this dish balances the slight gaminess of the venison, which is increasingly available at specialty meat shops. Green beans and turnip make great side dishes.
Edible Christmas Gifts
Blame it on my hormones, but the older I get, the more it seems to me that Christmas has become a commercialized gift-giving extravaganza.
Lamb Kibbeh Stuffed with Pistachios and Goat Cheese
Urfa pepper is a Turkish variety of chili pepper with a fantastic sweet, slightly smoky flavour with a touch of dried fruit on the palate. If sourcing is a challenge, Aleppo pepper offers a similar flavour profile.
Marinated Kanafa Prawns
Kanafa is a pastry similar to a stringy version of phyllo that is found in the freezer section of Middle Eastern and Greek food shops.
Akoori
Spice up your breakfast with this delicious Indian scrambled egg dish, a simple way to jump start your day.
Apple and Brie Omelette
Looking to change things up? Try adding a little apple to your morning omelette.
Slow Cooker Days
Everything old becomes new again. My mom always said if you lived long enough, styles would come back. The Crock-Pot, a popular 1970s kitchen appliance, is the latest new old find.
Lentil Quinoa Stew
The length of time will vary depending on what size of green lentils you use. I choose the larger organic green ones for a more solid texture.
Barley and Shiitake Mushroom Dinner
Barley is truly the unsung hero in the soluble-fibre world. This super grain is one of the richest sources of both soluble and insoluble fibre, which can help lower cholesterol.
Comfort Cuisine
These colder months call for comforting hot stews. Not only does it feel wonderful to cozy up to a warm soup, but when you fill that soup pot with healthy ingredients, you'll cozy up to a bowl bursting with nutrients!
Vegetable and Tofu Maki
The word sushi doesn’t actually refer to raw fish but to a boiled rice dish flavoured with vinegar. Hence sushi doesn’t have to contain fish.
Faux Fried Chicken
A spoonful of jarred pesto, curry powder or paste, crushed garlic or ginger, or a shot of Tabasco stirred into the buttermilk will add subtle flavour to your finished chicken. Panko is available at Asian markets and gourmet stores as well as some grocery stores.
Teriyaki Flank Steak
While flank is leaner than T-bone or prime rib, this marinade ensures you won’t miss the quintessential steak flavour.
Salmon Nigiri
A classic that’s equally delicious with tuna, shrimp, mackerel, mahi-mahi, sea bass, flounder, and sole. Wild Pacific salmon is a less contaminated, more eco-friendly choice than farmed salmon.
Smoked Salmon and Avocado Maki
Smoked trout and mackerel are good stand-ins for salmon. Choose wild Pacific salmon rather than farmed.
Pork Medallions with Apples and Kale
Slender apple wedges soak up the maple-ginger sauciness from the pork. Cooking apples such as Honeycrisp, Jonagold, or Golden Delicious work well here.
Chicken with Mango and Apricots
If the thought of cooking the big bird makes you want to head for the hills, why not try the smaller cousin of the poultry family?
Black Bean and Sweet Potato Chili
The black beans marry well with the vegetables and spices in what can only be described as a chili that warms even if the weather outside is frightful.
Gingered Maple-Soy Salmon with Autumn Slaw
Steaming fish in parchment paper packages keeps it juicy and moist. While the fish cooks, prepare the coleslaw.
Moroccan Chicken and Rice
This one-pot chicken and rice jumble gets an autumnal boost from butternut squash and is laced with the fragrant perfume of a variety of mixed dried spices. It’s not a spicy dish but is wonderful served with harissa, a North African spicy pepper paste.
Pappardelle with Peppered Beef, Basil, and Tomatoes
What makes this pasta dish so quick is the sauce—you barely cook it. Big cherry or campari tomatoes look pretty and are quick to prep—just slice in half.
Spicy Carrot and Lentil Curry
Not only a good source of vitamin A and protein, but it adds a little heat to the furnace.
Spaghetti Squash with Pumpkin Seed Pesto
Loaded with folic acid, potassium, vitamin A, and beta carotene, spaghetti squash is an excellent low-fat alternative to pasta.
Simple Sesame Grilled Chicken
Serve this alongside our other recipes for winter vegetables.
Dilled Salmon Linguine
Whole wheat pasta is best cooked al dente. Check package directions for timing, but taste for doneness 1 to 2 minutes before the suggested time.
Beef Stew with Sweet Potatoes and Orange
With a score of 54 on the GI, sweet potatoes rank surprisingly low. Adding orange to this hearty stew further reduces its overall rating.

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