Adapt this recipe for the grill by butterflying the whole chicken and cooking 30 minutes each side, beginning breast side down, until the skin is golden and the juices run clear.
1 small chicken
1 Tbsp (15 mL) olive oil
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
Leaves from 2 sprigs sage, finely chopped
Leaves from 1 sprig thyme, finely chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Wild Grape Sage Sauce
Bones from 1 chicken
2 Tbsp (30 mL) olive oil
1/2 stalk celery
1 1/4 cups (310 mL) Gamay Noir
6 cups (1.5 L) chicken stock
1 garlic clove
15 black peppercorns
10 juniper berries
1 bay leaf
1/2 tsp (2 mL) chopped sage, plus more for garnish
5 oz (150 g) wild grapes
1/3 cup (80 mL) maple syrup
A few hours before grilling, rub chicken with olive oil, garlic, sage, thyme, and salt and pepper. Refrigerate until grilling fire is ready. Build a fire with apple wood and, when the wood turns to coals, push chicken onto a rotisserie spit and roast, adding pieces of wild grape vines to the fire bit by bit as you turn the spit. Maintain a slow fire throughout roasting, about 1 hour. Chicken is ready when skin looks golden and juices run clear. Remove from fire and let sit 10 minutes before carving.
To make the sauce, preheat oven to 400 F (200 C). Chop chicken bones into walnut-sized pieces and place in shallow, ovenproof pan with olive oil. Roast until bones begin to brown, about 5 to 10 minutes. Add onions, carrots, and celery and continue roasting until golden brown. Remove pan from oven and place over high heat. Add Gamay Noir and deglaze. Add chicken stock and bring to boil, skimming off fat. In mortar and pestle, crush together garlic clove, peppercorns, juniper berries, and bay leaf. Add to pan along with sage. Cook slowly for about 1 hour. Pour sauce through fine sieve into clean saucepan and return to medium-high heat to reduce liquid until thickened, about 5 minutes.
In another saucepan, combine wild grapes and maple syrup, cooking over medium heat until a glazed consistency develops, about 5 minutes. Place mixture in blender and blend until smooth, then strain through cheesecloth. Add grape pure to chicken sauce at the last moment, along with chopped fresh sage leaves. Serves 4.
source: "Eigensinn Farm", alive #310, August 2008
Tourtière is, for me, the dish that best represents Québec. It can be traced back to the 1600s, and there’s no master recipe; every family has their own twist. Originally, it was made with game birds or game meat, like rabbit, pheasant, or moose; that’s one of the reasons why I prefer it with venison instead of beef or pork. Variation: If you prefer to make single servings, follow our lead at the restaurant, where we make individual tourtières in the form of a dome (pithivier) and fill them with 5 ounces (160 g) of the ground venison mixture. Variation: You can also use a food processor to make the dough. Place the flour, salt, and butter in the food processor and pulse about ten times, until the butter is incorporated—don’t overmix. It should look like wet sand, and a few little pieces of butter here and there is okay. With the motor running, through the feed tube, slowly add ice water until the dough forms a ball—again don’t overmix. Wrap, chill, and roll out as directed above.
My love of artichokes continues with this classic recipe, one of the best ways to eat this interesting, underrated, and strange vegetable. Frozen artichoke hearts are a time-saving substitute, though the flavour and texture of fresh artichokes are, by far, much superior and definitely preferred.
Cervelle de canut is basically the Boursin of France, an herbed fresh farmer’s cheese spread that’s a speciality of Lyon. The name is kind of weird, as it literally means “silk worker’s brain,” named after nineteenth-century Lyonnaise silk workers, who were called canuts. Sadly, the name reflects the low opinion of the people towards these workers. Happily for us, though, it’s delicious—creamy, fragrant, and fresh at the same time. Cervelle de canut is one of my family’s favourite dishes. It’s a great make-ahead appetizer that you can pop out of the fridge once your guests arrive. Use a full-fat cream cheese for the dish, or it will be too runny and less delicious.