The “Gina Mullin Challenge” at the International Society of Neurogastronomy Symposium is an event where two teams of neuroscientists and chefs compete, Iron Chef-style, to make dishes that appeal to people with taste challenges, such as chemotherapy patients. The event’s namesake, Gina Mullin, remarked at our first competition that sometimes when she got a craving for something, in the time it took to prepare it, the craving would be gone.
Montreal’s Chef Fred Morin won the first competition by preparing a simple but very rich potato soup as a base and offering numerous add-ins. He thought, and the chemo patients agreed, that having this flavorful base and accoutrements in the refrigerator to speed up the preparation was a winning idea.
This Super Umami Risotto follows Morin’s logic. Preparing the risotto through the third addition of liquid and then refrigerating it would also allow for quick preparation with endless flavor possibilities.
What makes something taste umami—that so-called “fifth taste” that’s super meaty and savory? The answer largely lies in an amino acid called glutamate, which binds to specific receptors on our tongues. That’s why this recipe calls for dried shiitake mushrooms. They’re significantly higher in glutamate than fresh! And while personalization options are limitless with this risotto (most vegetables can be diced and included in the sauté), additions that significantly increase the umami are asparagus and spinach.
Per serving:
In medium saucepan, bring broth or water to a boil. Remove from heat. Add dried mushrooms and stir. Set aside and steep for 30 minutes.
Over large bowl, strain rehydrated mushrooms through fine-mesh sieve, reserving liquid. Dice mushrooms and set aside. Add enough water to reserved liquid to equal 4 cups total. Set aside.
Heat large, heavy-bottomed saucepan or sauté pan over medium heat. Add oil to pan. Add shallots and leeks and sauté until transparent, about 2 minutes.
Stir in rice and cook over medium-low heat until opaque, about 2 minutes. Add wine and cook, stirring frequently, until wine has evaporated, about 3 minutes.
Add 1 cup reserved liquid along with thyme, bay leaf, salt, and pepper and mix well. Allow rice to simmer slowly until it is almost dry and begins to stick, about 3 minutes.
Add second cup of liquid and cook until rice is almost dry, another 3 minutes or so. Add third cup of liquid and cook until rice is almost dry, about 3 minutes.
Add fourth cup of liquid and cook for 2 minutes, or until rice is al dente. Stir in chopped mushrooms and heat through. Add more seasonings and a generous splash of lemon juice to taste.
Serve in bowls with generous gratings of vegan Parmesan, if desired.
TIP: For quick use later, after the third addition of liquid, spread the risotto onto a baking sheet to quickly cool, then transfer to a container and store in the refrigerator for up to 1 week. Reheat 1/4 of the risotto with 1/4 cup broth or water and finish the cooking process.
Tourtière is, for me, the dish that best represents Québec. It can be traced back to the 1600s, and there’s no master recipe; every family has their own twist. Originally, it was made with game birds or game meat, like rabbit, pheasant, or moose; that’s one of the reasons why I prefer it with venison instead of beef or pork. Variation: If you prefer to make single servings, follow our lead at the restaurant, where we make individual tourtières in the form of a dome (pithivier) and fill them with 5 ounces (160 g) of the ground venison mixture. Variation: You can also use a food processor to make the dough. Place the flour, salt, and butter in the food processor and pulse about ten times, until the butter is incorporated—don’t overmix. It should look like wet sand, and a few little pieces of butter here and there is okay. With the motor running, through the feed tube, slowly add ice water until the dough forms a ball—again don’t overmix. Wrap, chill, and roll out as directed above.
My love of artichokes continues with this classic recipe, one of the best ways to eat this interesting, underrated, and strange vegetable. Frozen artichoke hearts are a time-saving substitute, though the flavour and texture of fresh artichokes are, by far, much superior and definitely preferred.
Cervelle de canut is basically the Boursin of France, an herbed fresh farmer’s cheese spread that’s a speciality of Lyon. The name is kind of weird, as it literally means “silk worker’s brain,” named after nineteenth-century Lyonnaise silk workers, who were called canuts. Sadly, the name reflects the low opinion of the people towards these workers. Happily for us, though, it’s delicious—creamy, fragrant, and fresh at the same time. Cervelle de canut is one of my family’s favourite dishes. It’s a great make-ahead appetizer that you can pop out of the fridge once your guests arrive. Use a full-fat cream cheese for the dish, or it will be too runny and less delicious.