Tacos need not be only about Mexican flavours. Here, tender trout is adorned with a seasonal slaw and a punchy yogurt sauce. Dare we say, a taco night with serious photo appeal. Salmon or Arctic char are good stand-ins for the trout.
To transform these tacos into bowl food, omit tortillas and place cooked brown rice, quinoa, or sorghum in serving bowls and top with fish, slaw, and yogurt sauce.
To make slaw, in medium bowl, toss together beet, celery root, green onion, parsley, cider vinegar, and salt. Let rest for at least 30 minutes.
Preheat oven to 300 F (150 C). Season trout with salt and pepper (optional) and place skin side down on parchment paper-lined baking sheet. Bake fish for 15 minutes, or until just barely cooked through in the thickest part of the flesh. Let rest for 10 minutes and then gently break apart flesh with fork.
In small bowl, stir together yogurt, horseradish, and lemon juice.
Place chunks of trout on tortillas and top with slaw and dollops of horseradish cream.
Tourtière is, for me, the dish that best represents Québec. It can be traced back to the 1600s, and there’s no master recipe; every family has their own twist. Originally, it was made with game birds or game meat, like rabbit, pheasant, or moose; that’s one of the reasons why I prefer it with venison instead of beef or pork. Variation: If you prefer to make single servings, follow our lead at the restaurant, where we make individual tourtières in the form of a dome (pithivier) and fill them with 5 ounces (160 g) of the ground venison mixture. Variation: You can also use a food processor to make the dough. Place the flour, salt, and butter in the food processor and pulse about ten times, until the butter is incorporated—don’t overmix. It should look like wet sand, and a few little pieces of butter here and there is okay. With the motor running, through the feed tube, slowly add ice water until the dough forms a ball—again don’t overmix. Wrap, chill, and roll out as directed above.
My love of artichokes continues with this classic recipe, one of the best ways to eat this interesting, underrated, and strange vegetable. Frozen artichoke hearts are a time-saving substitute, though the flavour and texture of fresh artichokes are, by far, much superior and definitely preferred.
Cervelle de canut is basically the Boursin of France, an herbed fresh farmer’s cheese spread that’s a speciality of Lyon. The name is kind of weird, as it literally means “silk worker’s brain,” named after nineteenth-century Lyonnaise silk workers, who were called canuts. Sadly, the name reflects the low opinion of the people towards these workers. Happily for us, though, it’s delicious—creamy, fragrant, and fresh at the same time. Cervelle de canut is one of my family’s favourite dishes. It’s a great make-ahead appetizer that you can pop out of the fridge once your guests arrive. Use a full-fat cream cheese for the dish, or it will be too runny and less delicious.